When I was studying abroad in England, I came across an exhibit with propaganda posters from World War II. My favorite one pictured a perfectly coiffed American woman, carefully applying lipstick in a mirror. The caption was “Beauty is your duty”. I’ve research the subject from time to time, with varying degrees of success. What I have found in recent yeas are multiple academically irresponsible pop history articles and videos that talk about this subject. They claim that Hitler hated red lipstick and that Allied women responded with rapid resistance to his genocide by wearing red lipstick. I have not been able to find any primary or secondary sources that prove Hitler had a direct opinion on red lipstick, and when you look at these articles that do have references, (these are in the minority) they link back to older articles with this claim that have no source at all. It’s absolutely maddening.
Ok, so what DO we know about Hitler’s opinions that could be construed as an opinion of red lipstick? Well, there are sources that prove Hitler became a strict vegetarian by 1937, even dreaming of converting the German people to a vegetarian diet. There are multiple sources for this claim, the most compelling I found to be from transcripts of conversations between Hitler and his inner circle which took place between July 1941, and November 1944. In particular, according to these transcripts dated 11 November 1941, Hitler said, "One may regret living at a period when it's impossible to form an idea of the shape the world of the future will assume. But there's one thing I can predict to eaters of meat: the world of the future will be vegetarian." On 12 January 1942, he said, "The only thing of which I shall be incapable is to share the sheiks' mutton with them. I'm a vegetarian, and they must spare me from their meat." [1] There are also various accounts of his horror of animal slaughter and abuse. He reportedly would try to convince his dinner guests to become vegetarian as well, often horrifying them with disgusting accounts of animal slaughter to discourage them from eating meat. [2] Historians do argue whether or not Hitler’s vegetarianism was genuine. Some theorize that adopting vegetarian principles was a way of improving Hitler’s public image, or somehow atoning for a guilty conscience. I’m not interested in delving that deep into a madman’s psyche, but it it is worth mentioning that in 2017 Hitler’s bones were examined by French scientists, and an analysis of his teeth suggested he was in fact vegetarian.
So how is this connected to red lipstick? Well, at the time lipstick was made with animal byproducts. Hitler opposed animal testing (particularly vivisection), on an ideological basis and introduced the animal cruelty laws that are still in operation in Germany today. The use of animal by-products and animal testing routinely done in cosmetic labs could arguably be used as grounds to claim that Hitler hated red lipstick…but its a stretch. I find a more compelling reason in his vision of ideal Aryan Womanhood.
To summarize the ideal German woman, let’s take a look at this quote from Hitler Youth: 1922-1945, an Illustrated History:
“German women were encouraged not to “paint their faces” and not to “wear fashionable fripperies.” Although Hitler favored women with elegant and slim figures, the official image of the ideal woman was of a plump, broad-hipped and full figure suggestive of fertility. The regime promoted a rustic looking, fresh-faced, primly gowned, unadorned peasant girl with simple folk dresses, blond hair pulled into a bun or coiled braid: a female cliché suggesting fertility more than sensuality. Those who deliberately defied this stereotype were harassed, might be disciplined by the NSF and publicly denounced as “trouser-wenches with Indian warpaint,” and in the worst cases were fired from their jobs. [3]
So here we have another case you can make for Hitler hating red lipstick: perhaps the ideal Aryan features must be presented purely with no distraction of makeup? Also, the fashions of the 1920s and 30s were severely criticized by the Nazi regime; they claimed that these fashions were too heavily influenced by decadent French, and the Jews. The boxy, dropped waist styles of women’s clothing were criticized as boyish and anti-feminine, and therefore inappropriate for the ideal Aryan woman to wear. Aryan women were to be clothed in simple folkwear of German manufacture. To wear cosmetics was seen as encouraging a woman’s sensuality. German womanhood was strongly associated with fertility (but not sensuality):
“What use are beauty salons that encourage a cult of beauty and that takes up an enormous amount of our time and energy? They are wonderful during times of peace, but are a waste of time in a time of war. Our wives and our daughters will be able to welcome our victorious soldiers without their beautiful peacetime adornments.” [4]
So said Propaganda Minister Joseph Goebbels in his Sportspalast speech delivered on February 18, 1943.
But did Hitler hate red lipstick? While she lived with him, Hitler’s infamous companion (and later, wife) Eva Braun reportedly wore lipstick and heavy perfume, among other cosmetics, even after German production of cosmetics was halted in 1943.
Despite his ideology, Hitler did say he wanted German women to be the “best dressed in the world.” In other quotes he takes an even flippant attitude towards women’s fashions: “Is it really something so horrible when she looks pretty? Let’s be honest, we all like to see it,” he told his advisors in April of 1937 at the Nazi Ordensburg Vogelsang estate. [5] This suggests a gap between official party rules, and how people actually lived.
In her book, Nazi Chic? Fashioning Women in the Third Reich, Irene Geunther writes:
“Guidelines were published that illustrated the ideal eyebrows, lips, eyes, and cheekbones women could attain through the careful application of lipstick, eye shadow, rouge, and makeup pencils. The use of mascara was also suggested, but "not only in black or brown.... One can use blue and green in their darker tones." Sport im Bild encouraged the "discrete use of makeup" and objected to the "no cosmetics" propaganda by stating, "Some believe that the German woman makes herself up less! We say: more correctly! or even better, according to her individual type." Under the auspices of the German Labor Front, its Bureau for Beauty offered cosmetics courses and published pamphlets, like "Be Beautiful and Well Groomed", which gave tips on eye makeup application, appropriate colors of powder and rouge, hair dyeing techniques, and even news on the most flattering blonde hues available. And, a "House of Beauty" was opened in Berlin in 1939.” [6]
Now we see evidence that German women did still use cosmetics, and that government sanctioned Bureaus even educated women in how to do so. I do think that aesthetics and propaganda are inextricably tied together, and that regimes of the past have shown cunning in employing aesthetics to accomplish their wartime goals. In this case, I think it might be more appropriate to say that American propaganda influenced us into believing that Hitler hated red lipstick. It was a useful campaign, and it is undoubtedly true that morale was key in our winning the war. Next week I want to talk about Allied propaganda surrounding cosmetics and women’s war efforts, so stay tuned for part 2.
Love,
Tatyana
[1] Hitler, Adolph; Hugh Trevor-Roper (trans.) (2000). Hitler's Table Talk: 1941-1944. Section 66. Enigma Books. ISBN 1-929631-05-7.
[2] Wilson, Bee (9 October 1998). "Mein Diat – Adolf Hitler's diet". New Statesman. UK.
[3] Lepage, Jean-Denis G.G.; McFarland (2009). Hitler Youth 1922-1945: An Illustrated History. Page 51. ISBN 0786439351
[5] Guenther, Irene. Berg Publishers (2004). Nazi Chic? Fashioning Women in the Third Reich. Page 141.ISBN 185973717X
[6] Ibid
This gave me so much to look into - such a comprehensive spring point to dive into further research. Like the emphasis on fertile looking women!